Spotlight: South Tyrol

One-half of the self-governing Trentino-South Tyrol region, this province in the north of Italy is a fascinating blend of Italian and Austrian culture. Part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918, the region was then annexed by Italy and received its autonomy in 1972. Today, South Tyrol is one of the wealthiest regions in the European Union, and tourism is one of its chief industries—small wonder, given its idyllic setting, picturesque towns, and abundance of fine dining options.

Fast Facts

• Population: 511, 750
• Area: 7, 399.07 km²
• Capital: Bolzano
• Languages: German (70%), Italian (25%), Ladin (5%)
• Also known as: Südtirol (German), Sudtirolo (Italian), and Alto Adige (Italian)

Fun Facts

• 80% of the region is mountainous, and only 8% is suitable for human habitation
• South Tyrol is located on the south of the Alpine Divide, and gets 300 sunny days a year
• One-tenth of Europe’s apples are grown here
• Has the most Michelin-starred restaurants (20) of any Italian province
• Bolzano consistently ranks in or around the top place in quality-of-life rankings of Italian cities
• Europe’s oldest known natural mummy, “Ötzi the Iceman” (believed to have lived around 3300 BCE), was discovered in the Ötztal Alps in 1991
  
• While 70% of the region’s population is German-speaking, the city of Bolzano is largely Italian-speaking (around 75%). The statute that preserves the rights of the German-speaking minority is lauded as one of the finest examples of successful resolution of inter-ethnic conflict, and the Dalai Lama made several visits to the city to study how such a system could be applied to Chinese-occupied Tibet.

What to Do

• Visit Bolzano’s Museion, a contemporary art museum with exhibitions from national and international artists
• Head to the tiny village of Barbiano to take in some jaw-dropping alpine scenery
• Check out the Tre Cime di Lavaredo—the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites
• Take a stroll through Merano’s Empress Elisabeth Park (named in honour of “Sissi,” the Austro-Hungarian empress who spent her summers here in the 19th century)
• See the sights of Merano via a trip on the Merano 2000 cable car
• Pay a visit to the Schloss Tirol just outside Merano, then cycle your way around the surrounding bike trails
• Ski at the Plan de Corones Mountain from late November to mid April
• Swim, windsurf, or sail on Lake Caldaro, the warmest Alpine bathing lake

Where to Eat

• Löwengrube (Bolzano)—which got a sharp new redesign in 2012—has been serving traditional South Tyrolean cuisine since 1543
• Merano’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, Andrea Fenoglio at Sissi is a must-visit for fine food in a friendly venue
• Restaurant Schöneck, just outside the small village of Falzes, is the place to go for South Tyrolean fare with a dash of Mediterranean

What to Eat

• Speck (smoked pork leg)
• Schüttelbrot (rye and sour dough bread)
• Knödel (dumplings)
• Apple strudel

Where to Drink

• Chic wine bar Banco 11 (Bolzano) is a favourite after-work haunt of locals
• For the best coffee in Bolzano, head to Neissing and choose among five in-house blends
• The magnificent tasting terrace at winery Kellerei Nals Margreid (Merano) is perfect for sipping their celebrated wines

What to Drink

• Grappa (pomace brandy)
• Forst (beer)
• Lagrein (red wine)
• Gewürztraminer (white wine)

Where to Stay

• Its central location, opulent touches, and century-old history make Laurin the best stay in Bolzano
• For the best views around, check in to Miramonti (Merano), run by husband and wife Klaus and Carmen
• Mountain resort Vigilius (just outside Merano) can only be reached by cable car, making it the perfect retreat from the world

Where to Shop

• Owned by the Schwienbacher-Kaspareth family since 1945, Thaler (Bolzano) is a pharmacy, perfumery, and champagne bar
• A Merano institution since 1890, Seibstock is a high-end delicatessen with a bar and dining room in its 14th-century wine cellar
• Native South Tyrolean Charlotte di Marschall’s womenswear boutique Victorienne (Bolzano) is a favourite amongst shoppers in the know